Chive Studio · Plant Care

Philodendron Care: The Complete Guide

Philodendron - Chive Ceramics Studio

Back in 2020, we could set our watch by it: a guy would walk into the shop holding his phone out, screen already unlocked to a photo of the most beautiful variegated pink and green leaf you've ever seen, and say, my girlfriend wants one of these. We'd tell him it was a Pink Princess Philodendron, and it would run him about a thousand dollars for a decent one. There would be a pause. Then: do you have anything close? By 2022 they'd finally been mass-produced down to about seventy dollars for a big one — and somehow, almost every single one of them came out an ugly, muddy green-brown, nothing like the photo that started the whole thing. I have never in my life watched a plant fall from hero to zero that fast.

At Chive Studio, we've been matching people to philodendrons for more than five years of running our Toronto plant shop, on top of two decades of making the ceramic pots they climb out of. Here's the family, sorted.

Chive Bobbin white porcelain hanging planter pot without drainage styled with a philodendron plant.
Bobbin white porcelain hanging planter pot styled with a philodendron - Chive Studio.

How to Care for a Philodendron

Bright, indirect light, water when the top inch of soil has dried, and a pot that drains — the philodendron asks for the standard package and then forgives you for delivering it imperfectly. Lower light? Slower growth, no protest. A missed watering? A slight, brief droop, resolved within hours of a drink. The one preference worth respecting is warmth: keep it above 60°F and away from cold drafts, because this is a tropical family and it never signed up for a Toronto windowsill in January. Beyond that, the philodendron's entire care philosophy is: do roughly the right thing, roughly on time, and I'll handle the rest.

Philodendron Light and Watering Requirements

Medium to bright indirect light suits every philodendron; the variegated types — the Brasil's stripe, the Birkin's pinstriping, the Pink Princess's entire reason for existing — hold their patterns best with more brightness, while the solid green types tolerate the dimmer corners without complaint. NC State Extension's philodendron profile confirms the family's preference for indirect light and sensitivity to overwatering. Direct sun scorches the leaves; total gloom slowly converts a variegated plant into a plain one. Water when the top inch is dry — every week or so in season, longer in winter — and always let the pot drain. Yellow leaves mean you've been generous; crispy brown edges mean you've been absent. It will forgive either. It keeps a record of neither.

Chive white ceramic planter with a rippled vertical texture and saucer, styled with a mixed philodendron on a white plinth.
A Philodendron Birkin in a Chive Virago porcelain plant pot with drainage and saucer.

Types of Philodendron Worth Knowing

Heartleaf Philodendron

The workhorse — heart-shaped, deep-green leaves on vines that trail as readily as they climb, growing with a steadiness that made this the office plant of the twentieth century and the propagation plant of this one. The heartleaf is the family's answer to the golden pothos: nearly identical care, nearly identical forgiveness, a slightly softer, more matte leaf. If you want a philodendron that simply works, in any room, on any schedule, this has been the answer for about a hundred years and remains it.

Philodendron Brasil

The heartleaf in a better outfit — same easy trailing habit, same forgiving nature, with a bold lime-and-yellow stripe painted down the center of each leaf like a highway line. The Brasil is the variety we recommend when someone wants variegation without variegation's usual maintenance tax, because the stripe holds well in ordinary bright-indirect light and the plant grows nearly as fast as its plain relative. The best looks-per-effort ratio in the family, and it isn't particularly close.

Philodendron Birkin

The design object — compact, upright, non-trailing, with dark green leaves pinstriped in white so precisely it looks screen-printed. The Birkin grows slower than the vining types and stays politely shelf-sized for years, which makes it the philodendron for people who want the family's temperament in a plant that behaves like décor. One quirk worth knowing: the pinstriping varies leaf to leaf, sometimes heavily striped, sometimes barely, occasionally throwing a leaf that's half white — the plant equivalent of a limited print run, and nothing to fix.

Pink Princess Philodendron

The famous one, the expensive one, the one people arrive already knowing about — deep green leaves splashed with genuine bubblegum pink, in patches no two leaves repeat. The pink is chimeric variegation, which means it's beautiful, unstable, and negotiable: the plant will happily revert toward solid green if the light is too low or a green-dominant vine gets momentum. Owning a Pink Princess is less like owning a plant and more like managing a small celebrity — the FAQ below covers the maintenance of the pink specifically, because it is, by volume, the question we get most about this plant.

Philodendron Micans

The quiet luxury option — heart-shaped leaves in velvet, shifting between deep green, bronze, and a rust-purple depending on the light and the angle, on trailing vines that read as expensive from across the room. The micans costs a fraction of a Pink Princess and delivers, in our opinion, a more sophisticated effect with none of the instability: no variegation to lose, no reversion to manage, just that velvet surface doing something slightly different every hour of the day. The connoisseur's trailing philodendron, and the one shop staff take home.

Chive's pick for the prettiest one that isn't a total princess: the micans — the Pink Princess is the celebrity, but the micans is the one that looks better in real light, costs a fraction as much, and never once threatens to go green on you out of spite. — Chive Studio

How to Propagate a Philodendron

The vining types propagate as easily as anything in the houseplant world: snip below a node, drop the cutting in water, and roots appear within a couple of weeks, visible through the glass. Heartleaf, Brasil, and micans all root this way with a near-perfect success rate — pot the cutting once the roots reach a couple of inches, or leave a few cuttings in the same glass and pot them together for an instantly full plant. The upright types like the Birkin propagate by division at repotting instead. One Pink Princess note: propagate from stems showing strong pink variegation, because a cutting from a green-reverted section grows a green plant, permanently. The pink travels with the tissue or not at all.

Chive Mofo large black ceramic hanging pot with diamond texture, hanging against a concrete wall with a trailing plant.
Mofo large black ceramic hanging pot for trailing plants.

The Right Pot for a Philodendron

The trailing types want the same staging logic as any vining plant: height, drainage, and somewhere for the vines to go. We hang ours in the Mofo — a porcelain hanging planter with genuine drainage that puts a Brasil or micans at eye level, where the trailing habit and the leaf detail both actually get seen. Upright types like the Birkin take a standard pot, sized to the root ball with modest room to grow. Either way the drainage hole is non-negotiable — root rot is the one problem this forgiving family doesn't forgive you for. Every Chive pot with drainage has one. We have never made it otherwise.

Common Philodendron Problems

Yellow leaves are the overwatering flag, especially several at once — check that the soil isn't staying wet between waterings and that the pot actually drains. Brown, crispy tips point to underwatering or dry winter air. Leggy vines with long bare gaps between leaves are a light request: move it brighter and new growth fills in tighter. Fading variegation on a Brasil, Birkin, or Pink Princess is the same request with higher stakes. And small leaves on a climbing type usually mean it wants something to climb — give a climber a pole and the leaves size up dramatically, which is the cheapest transformation in houseplant care.

Every collection eventually runs on philodendrons — it happens gradually, one variety at a time, until you look up and realize the shelf, the hanging hook, and the windowsill are all family. There are worse fates. This is the genus that meets people exactly where they are: forgiving when you're new, interesting when you're not, and pink when you've completely lost your financial judgment. We've watched the whole arc more times than we can count. It always ends the same way, which is with more philodendrons.

One Last Thing From the Shop

We're all geeks at the shop, and it feels like every other month a brand new philodendron variety shows up on the ordering form from Florida — something we've never carried, sometimes something we've never even heard of — and we check the box and order twenty without much debate. It's an easy plant to say yes to, in every sense. Easy to grow, easy to sell, easy to keep saying yes to when the next one shows up on the form.

Chive Studio has been designing and making ceramic plant pots in Toronto since 2004, and running the plant shop on Queen Street West for more than five years on top of that. Our pots are stocked at the McKee Botanical Garden in Florida, the Museum of Flight in Seattle, the Nevada Museum of Art, and SFMOMA — institutions with acquisition standards and no patience for objects that don't meet them. We have exhibited at the RHS Chelsea Flower Show since 2013; twice awarded the 5-star booth award — only two are given each year. Always original, often copied.

Related: Pots with Drainage · All Plant Pots · Studio Journal


Frequently Asked Questions

Is a philodendron easy to care for?

Among the easiest — the vining types in particular tolerate irregular watering, adapt across a wide light range, and recover from neglect quickly enough that beginners rarely lose one. Water when the top inch of soil dries, keep it out of direct sun and cold drafts, and give it a pot that drains: that's the complete program. In five years of shop recommendations, the heartleaf and Brasil sit right beside the pothos on our shortest list — the plants we hand over without a care lecture, because they don't need one.

Why is my Pink Princess losing its pink?

Because the pink is chimeric variegation — unstable by nature — and the plant reverts toward solid green when the light is too low or a green-dominant growth point takes over. Two fixes, both required: give it the brightest indirect light you have, and prune strategically — cut a reverting vine back to the last leaf showing good pink, and new growth from that point tends to carry the variegation forward. A fully green vine left to run will gradually take the plant with it. The pink is not a feature that maintains itself; it's a feature you vote for, continuously, with light and scissors.

How often should I water a philodendron?

When the top inch of soil is dry — roughly weekly in the growing season, stretching to ten days or more in winter. Check with a finger rather than a calendar; light, pot size, and season move the real interval around more than any schedule survives. Water thoroughly, let it drain completely, and never leave it standing in a saucer of runoff. The philodendron telegraphs both errors clearly — yellow for too much, crispy for too little — and recovers from each faster than almost anything else you could grow.

Do philodendrons climb or trail?

Both — it depends on the type, and it's the most useful sorting question in the family. Heartleaf, Brasil, and micans trail beautifully from a hanging pot and will also climb if offered support. The larger-leafed climbers genuinely want a moss pole or trellis, and reward one dramatically: leaves on a supported climber grow noticeably larger than on the same plant left to sprawl. Upright compact types like the Birkin do neither — they just sit there being architectural. Decide where you want the plant to live first, then pick the type that wants to live that way.

Is philodendron toxic to cats and dogs?

Yes — the ASPCA lists philodendron as toxic to both cats and dogs. Like its Araceae relatives, it contains insoluble calcium oxalate crystals, and chewing causes oral irritation, drooling, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing. The reaction is immediate enough that most pets stop quickly, but trailing vines dangle at exactly cat height, which makes the hanging-pot placement a genuine safety strategy and not just staging. Keep vines trimmed above reach, and call your vet or ASPCA Poison Control if a pet has clearly eaten some.

Can philodendrons grow in low light?

The solid green types handle low light better than most houseplants — growth slows, but the plant stays healthy and full. The variegated types are the exception: a Brasil, Birkin, or Pink Princess in a dim corner gradually produces greener, plainer leaves, because variegated tissue can't photosynthesize hard enough to justify itself in the dark. The rule of thumb: the more color you paid for, the more light you owe it. A plain heartleaf in a north-facing room will simply get on with it.

How fast do philodendrons grow?

The vining types are genuinely fast — a happy heartleaf or Brasil can add several feet of vine in a single growing season, which is why one plant fills a shelf edge within a year. The Birkin and other compact uprights move much slower, adding leaves rather than length, on a timeline better measured seasonally. Speed tracks light and warmth more than anything else: the same plant grows twice as fast in a bright warm room as in a dim cool one. If yours seems stalled outside of winter, brightness is almost always the lever.

Ryan Hearst

Written by

Ryan Hearst

Plant Daddy & Resident Plant Expert, Chive

Ryan has been running the Chive plant shop in Toronto since 2020, which means he has watched more people fall in love with a Pink Princess Philodendron, balk at the price, and settle for a Brasil than he can count. He can tell you everything you need to know about philodendrons.

More about Chive